Personal information | |
---|---|
Born | [1] Myagdi, Gandaki Province, Nepal | 25 July 1983
Nationality | British,[2][3][4] Non-Resident Nepali Citizenship (since 9 November 2023)[5] |
Career | |
Starting age | 29/30[6] |
Notable ascents | Ascent of all fourteen eight-thousander mountains, with a time of six months and six days (supplemental oxygen aid) - a record time until 2023.
Fastest ascent of Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu, in 48 hours[7][8][9] First winter ascent of K2[10][11][12] |
Family | |
Spouse | Suchi Purja |
Children | Himani Purja[13] |
Nirmal Purja (known as Nims or Nimsdai[14]) MBE (Nepali: निर्मल पुर्जा; born 25 July 1983[1]) is a Nepal-born naturalised British[4] mountaineer. Prior to taking on a career in mountaineering, he served in the British Army with the Brigade of Gurkhas followed by the Special Boat Service (SBS), the special forces unit of the Royal Navy.[1][15] Purja is notable for having climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (peaks above 8,000 metres or 26,000 feet) in a time of six months and six days with the aid of bottled oxygen between April and October 2019.[16] This was a record at the time of climbing, although it was broken in 2023 by Kristin Harila and Tenjen Sherpa, who summitted all 14 eight-thousanders in 92 days. Purja was the first person to reach the summits of Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within 48 hours. In 2021, Purja, along with a team of nine other Nepalese climbers, completed the first winter ascent of K2.[17][18][19]
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